The World's Largest 3D Jigsaw Puzzle

That's what the first Westerners found when they "discovered" the temples of Angkor... the world's largest three-dimensional jigsaw puzzle... almost completely hidden from sight by almost 1000 years of forest growth. 

Ta Phrom temple

Today, over 150 years later, the forest has been cut back to a perimeter outside the walls and many of the temples' main structures are partially of almost completely rebuilt.

    Banyon Temple

The task is daunting and is greatly helped with money from China, Korea, France, Germany, and the U.S.

Sunday, 26 January

Taking an 8:20 a.m. Vietnam Airlines flight put me through Cambodian Immigration and Customs before 10 a.m. and Mr. Rith, my tuk-tuk driver for the duration, was waiting for me and holding a sheet of paper with my name on it. I'd forgotten how nice it is to be met at the airport, even if it is by a total stranger sent by the hotel. 

Mr. Rith dropped me off at the hotel and we agreed that in about 30 minutes he would take me to the Angkor National Museum. The welcome given by the reception staff at the Soria Moria Boutique Hotel could hardly have been warmer. I immediately felt like this was a great choice for me. The hotel is 51% employee-owned and everyone I encountered in my three-day stay was smiling, friendly, extremely helpful, and apparently glad to have me there--just like any owner.

The rooms are large and comfortable, there is a rooftop bar and sun deck, a "sky jacuzzi", a spa, and free Wi-Fi for guests. On Tuesday, they will even offer to help me get the blood out of my pant leg!

When you go to Angkor, please go to the Angkor National Museum BEFORE you go to the temples, unless you are either Hindu or a religious scholar. Most of us in the Western world, myself included, are painfully unaware of other cultures and religions. When your Guide talks about a lingua or Shiva or Garuda or Naga, you will have a much better chance of understanding the context and remembering who or what something is or means at the next temple IF you have already taken 2-3 hours to tour the museum. You will also see the 1000 Buddhas that used to be in one of the temples.

Click here for a quick reference guide to a few of the key figures.

A few words about the temples of Angkor before I share some of my favorite photos...

a) The temples are MUCH bigger than they look in the photos unless you have a frame of reference, e.g. a person in the shot.

b) Virtually every surface is intricately and exquisitely carved with almost unbelievable attention to detail.

c) They were created with hammers, chisels, sticks, rope, muscle, and a great vision.

d) The temples are sandstone built over a limestone base. The quarries for each are ~60 km away.

e) as at Machu Picchu, the stones were fitted together without mortar

I hope you enjoy my photos...

~100 foot-wide hand-dug moat surrounding and protecting Angkor Wat; causeway at left.

On the left, a restored section of Angkor Wat causeway; 

The right side is unrestored.

The edge of a window and Aspara dancers, each on a different plane.

Aspara dancers, each ~18 inches high.

King Suryavarman II on his elephant (notice the matching royal headgear) with his troops. Portion of carving shown ~60 inches high.

 

All temples are sandstone over a limestone foundation

Angkor Wat East side of South wall. Notice that the towers are all lotus-shaped.

Entrance gate to Banyon Temple. Note the face.

Guardians at Banyon Temple. Dark are original; white are restored. 

This is how one distinguishs old from restored at all temples.

Many of the faces of Banyon Temple...

I like this shot from the beginning of the post, so you get to see it again.

The Elephant Wall is 300+ yards long and all carved in this style.

Notice the royal headgear...

Inside Ta Phrom Temple

Many of the trees that engulfed Ta Phrom were left intact to show how nature had taken it back over the centuries.

Restoration work at Ta Phrom

More photos to come...

Off-topic... It may be time for that Revolution

Story: The richest 85 people in the world have as much wealth as the poorest half... of the entire world!

According to Jon Stewart on The Daily Show, that bottom half includes more people than are in China, India, Africa, AND Australia...

WTF?

When is Obama going to sign an Executive Order freeing Edward Snowdon from the possibility of prosecution persecution?

Story: Snowdon Vindicated by U.S. Government Report 

The next time you're in Sài Gòn...

The next time you're in Ho Chi Minh City, take this post along in case you need:

Optical Assistance

Cửa Hàng Mắt Kính Optical Shop, 195 Dé Thám, District 1

I brought three pair do glasses with me because I figured that traveling extensively would take its toll. So far, I overpacked. It took 8 weeks to render the first pair pretty much unusable. The frame broke, and the lenses (one prescription ago) are still okay. Terrance told me about a shop a few blocks away that'd helped him out in a similar situation, so I wandered down there this morning... and in 30 minutes they put my old lenses in a new frame for a bit under $30. If they were my #1 or #2 pair, I would've gone for the $60. frame, but these will be just fine. Everyone I dealt with was very helpful and there is an optometrist on-site. 

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The World's Freshest Fruit Drinks

Smoothie & Fruit, 19 Đổ Quang Đẩu, District 1

This tiny shop just opened this week and is run by a very nice young couple. Since the fruit is fruit until you ask them to make it into juice or a smoothy, you can't find any fresher juices anywhere. 

Prices range from 15,000-20,000 VND (US$0.75-1.00), so you can drink a couple every day as I do...

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The best Phớ (pron. Faa) I've Found

Phớ Quỳnh, 323 Phạm Ngū Lão, District 1

With four HCMC locations, one will probably be near where you're staying. Very fresh and flavorful, this corner location means it's always busy. You may get to share a table with a stranger, so pull up a stool, order a hot bowl of this ubiquitous noodle soup, and dig in. Conversation optional, though most natives I've met talk before and after, but rarely during the meal... Unless they're quite well off.

Note: Slurping your noodles is both necessary and standard phớ-eating etiquette.

Phớ Ga and drink <70,000 VND (~US$3.50)

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Two Nice Hotels

Havy Hotel, 16-18 Đổ Quang Đẩu, District 1

The owner is almost always on-site and both she and many of her very capable staff speak good English. Very clean rooms at fair and reasonable rates AND, if you've rented or purchased a motorcycle or scooter, there is 24-hour indoor, secure parking. If you want a western-style shower, let them know when you make your reservation. Tell them I sent you (show the picture from the blog) and she may come down a dollar or two on the rate.

Kim Hai Hotel, 17 Đổ Quang Đẩu, District 1

Across the street from the Havy, is another good hotel. Owner Kim and the reception staff also speak good English, the rooms a bit smaller, and rates are comparable to the Havy. If you do not need parking, this is an equally good choice.

Note: I was able to walk into both hotels and secure a room for that night and beyond. There may be times that a reservation is needed. Both hotels are in the US$20/night range. 

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iPhone Assistance
ĐTDD HOÀNG PHÁT, 358-360 Trần Hưng Đạo, P2, District 5

As I wrote about a month or so ago, I screwed up and updated the software on the iPhone3GS--which then would not finish rebooting--rendering it useless. Until today, when I finally decided to spend some time seeing if any of the shops calling themselves "Apple Specialists" could figure out WTF was wrong with it. The first shop spent 20 minutes or so working on it, with the bottom line that they "don't have the equipment to fix it because it's too old." No fix, no charge. 

Next, I wandered down the street to another shop a kilometer or so away. Their Specialist handed it back to me about 30 minutes later and the only thing I needed to do to use it was ask him to switch the language from Vietnamese to English. Total cost: 100,000VND (less than US$5), plus the 40,000 VND tip I gladly gave him. It's working just fine, now, thank you!

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Clothing Repair

Street-side Clothing Repair, between 145 and 147 Bùi Viên, District 1

This guy is great!

My favorite shorts had a ripped seam for a few years and I was frequently less than careful about putting things in the right front pocket. The rip's gotten larger since I've been here and when this street-side repair "shop" appeared last week, I decided to give him some business. 

He was working on some jeans and I want, but he stopped working on them put them aside any song. I handed in my shorts, showed him the lack of scene, and he went to work. After choosing almost exactly the right shade of green for the thread, he wound a bobbin, loaded the thread, and two minutes later had the seam completely repaired. When he asked for 10,000 VND I shoot my head 'No,' and handed him 30,000 (US$1.50). He smiled broadly, thanked me, and I went happily on my way.

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Massage and/or Manicure

Như Sương, 32 Nguyển Cư Trinh, District 1

I first met Trang (pron. Tran) when she was one of a two-manicurist team who did a very good job on my left hand. When I returned the next day for a massage, she remembered me and asked if she could be my masseuse. Absolutely. 

The one-hour massage was extended a bit at my request and was one of the best I've had in-country. She was very good and extremely professional. The massage was 200,000 VND and I tipped her 300,000 VND to make it an even 500,000. Money well spent, because two days later I'm still feeling good.

Another choice is Khả Hấn, 40 Nguyền Cư Trinh, a couple doors to the left of the shop above. I went there when I first arrived and had a borderline negative experience, but when Như Sương closed for the Tèt holiday, I thought I would give it another go for or a neck and shoulder massage. Fortunately, I drew a very nice and professional young lady named Thu (pronounced "to").  She did a great job and, although her English is limited, she was able to understand what I wanted. As a woman who depends on tips to live, she chooses to up-sell with a manicure instead of the additional private massage options often offered by others. I said yes, and my fingernails look as good as they ever have. She also offered a pedicure, but I was running late for another engagement, so I returned the next day. 

If you go, make sure to ask for Thu and be sure to stay away from Trang. She's the tall one who smiles like a snake...

See my post "Tạm biệt (goodbye) Việt Nam... for now" for a photo from that session.

I'm getting spoiled by the Customer Service here...

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See Sài Gòn, Random Thoughts, Phần Ba dated 21 January for a few more restaurant suggestions.

More on Thailand

As interesting as it would be to be there observing, my decision to stay in Viêt Nam may mark the return of my common sense.

Dozens Injured in Thai Protest Bombing

Thai Pro-government Protest Leader Shot

Thailand Declares State of Emergency

Best wishes to the protestors. May you get the government you want.

Sài Gòn, Random Thoughts Phần Ba (Part Three)

A couple days after I got back to HCMC, one of my new friends wanted to go to the Ben Thanh market for dinner. Really? This indoor market reminds me of the Preston Henn Swapshop in Fort Lauderdale and any of the bazillions of cavernous buildings across the world with 1,000 individual very small businesses each in its own tiny cubicle. They're actually rectangles, so would they be recticles? Neither time I've been there have I seen anything I would categorize as 'food'.

I was very surprised when we arrived and sat down at a number of restaurants that materialize each night, at least one of which is almost a block long. The one we visited features GREAT fresh seafood prepared just about any way you'd want it--and at Viêt Nam prices.

One of the items on my very short list of things to do before departure is to enjoy another dinner there.

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"Hello Girls" is my new term for the dozens of bar girls (there are also boys and lady-boys at at least two places I've passed) in the tourist areas. It sounds more forgiving than "Bar Girls", at least to me. These very attractive, though understandably a bit hard-looking, women sit at tables flanking the streets and call out "Hello!" to virtually every male who walks by without a female companion. The greeting may also be accompanied by, "Come sit/talk with me." or "I'm bored..." They are at times insistent, though always polite. Although I have yet to succumb to their siren call, I have a few ex-pat acquaintances who have. They tell me that the girls are mostly uneducated, from poor families in small villages, and find this the best or only way to earn a living. 

Unfortunately, they work on straight commission--a percentage of their customers' bar tab, including the high-priced sugar water the girl drinks--and, if they choose, whatever they can make by getting invited to a customer's room for an hour or all night. I say unfortunately, because most nights the great majority of the Hello Girls I see are without customers.

It's a lousy way to make a living... I may even stop in one night, limit my spending to a couple glasses of sugar water, and thereby contribute a little more to the very local economy.

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It occurred to me that of the 15 to 20 people I've met who have made or are making HCMC to Hà Nôi or Hà Nôi to HCMC journey by motorcycle, the oldest one is 31 years old. So yes, especially when considering that I've completed 60 laps around the sun, making it to Hà Nôi was one hell of a accomplishment!

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During a conversation with Mimi from Cần Thở, I mentioned that one of my ex-pat acquaintances is continuously telling anyone who will listen about the many, many women he beds--ocassionally with no up-front money. Mimi said, "He's a butterfly". He is now known as Butterfly, though we haven't told him. Yet.

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There are a couple places I've been shown in the area that serve excellent snails, clams, and crab, and I've returned to them both. The first is a no-name street kitchen that manifests every night in the front of a parking garage between 149 and 155A Bùi Viên Street. It's run by a couple and their daughter and they display the evening's fresh selection street-side. 

The place is full all night, every night, and the three of them barely slow down until well after most of us are asleep.

The second is Ốc Đào, a regular restaurant at 132 Nguyễn Thái Học Street. I recommend the upstairs seating area.

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Also very good:

Little India, 135 Bùi Viên; Best Indian food in the area

Lâm Café, 175 Bùi Viên; ~American breakfast

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One place I suggest you avoid is Saigon Kitchen & BBQ on Bùi Viên. I ordered their Seafood Fried Noodles and they were very greasy with only 6 pieces of calamari and no other seafood. There are enough good places at similar or lower prices that this place gets a D+ only because I didn't get stomach cramps.

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A few posts ago I wrote about the tones determining the words' sound and therefore meaning. What just now occurred to me is that it happens in English, too. For example: read (reed) and read (red).

At least Vietnamese warns you with those little marks above and/or below some letters: à, ả, ã, á, ạ, ă, ằ, ẵ, ắ, ặ, ẳ, ấ, â, ầ, ẩ, ẫ, ấ, and ậ. 

For example: Tôi ăn tỏi (I ate garlic).

"Khách sạn" is pronounced "hek sa" and means hotel.

My head's spinning, how 'bout yours?

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The energy drink Red Bull is available at many sidewalk restaurants here. In Vietnamese it's Lon Bò cụng (ask for "Lone Ba" and you'll get one)

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Some of the many menu items I've seen here include "well-stirred egg"; "flaked fried snake head fish"; "deep fried pig stomach"; and "blanched pig heart with onion" and many choices of how you can have your snake. Did not try any of the above, so I have no favorite... though I'm guessing it would be the first which is probably simple scrambled eggs.

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"Hello Girls", a Butterfly, and now a massage reevaluation...

I was recently told by someone who should know that the young women who give massages work for tips only. That means that if someone is very generous and tips 50%, she makes US$5 for the hard physical work that is a $10 massage. Since there are often more than 10 massage shops in a single block of the touristy areas, none of them are overflowing with customers and there are often six or more waiting masseuses. These are, again, mostly uneducated women from poor rural (redundant) families with few options and a societal need to send money home. I can understand why many resort to selling their bodies.

I now tip 100% or more for every massage. The most recent got a $10 tip for an $8 massage.
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Another first... tomato juice from fresh tomatoes! I was not surprised by banana juice that tasted just like liquified bananas or watermelon juice that tasted like watermelon sans seeds and crunch. I was, therefore surprised to be surprised by tomato juice that tasted just like tomatoes with neither sugar nor salt added AND that was thin--like someone had just put a few ripe tomatoes in a juicer. 

Go figure...

Bếp Viêt Vietnamese Kitchen, 113A Bùi Viên. The food is good, too.

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Took a side trip to a small city this week that is not served by an airport...

Taxi 20 km from the airport to the bus station for 343,000 VND @ 16.5/km

Bus 60 km for 50,000 VND

Train 65 km for 38,000 VND

Taxi 20 km from the train station to airport 274,000 VND @ 11.0/km

The train was the least expensive, smoothest, and most comfortable of the four. 

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If you stick with VINASUN or Mailin Group taxis in HCMC and Mailin Group taxis in Hà Nôi, you'll be fine.  Upon international arrival at HCMC's airport (SGN), don't fall as I did for the "the published rate into the city is US$35" for which they even show you a laminated card. Take a metered taxi and pay less than 200,000VND (~US$10). It helps to have VND, so change $50 at the airport to hold you until you get to your hotel. Yes, you'll pay a little higher rate (bank and hotel rate is 20,500 to 21,000 per US$), but it's worth it and you'll be a millionaire within 30 minutes of arriving in Việt, Nâm <smile>

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One evening last week I started having extreme discomfort on my left side. As usual, I figured it would go away on its own. My morning, it was unbearable and I decided that I had to see a doctor. While still in bed, I called Travel Guard, the company from whom I'd purchased a medical policy for the length of my trip... or so I thought. Although after extensive searching shevcould find no record of my purchase, the woman with whom I spoke offered to help in any way she could, including finding a local doctor or hospital for me. I thanked her and told her I wanted to try one other option before asking her to work for free--which she was happy to do.

My next call was Global Rescue, whom I did pay in case I need medical evacuation from anywhere to the U.S. hospital of my choice. Matthew James picked up my call and was incredibly helpful! He listed to my symptoms which, as I detailed them, sound a lot like how I've heard appendicitis presents with the possible exception that it was on my left instead of my right. After we talked for a while, he asked if he could do a bit of research and call me back in 20 minutes.

Less than 10 minutes passed before Matthew called me with an appointment at a clinic less than 20 minutes from my hotel. That's service!

The staff and doctor at the Family Medical Practice Vietnam speak English and were very solicitous. They found a bed for me to rest more comfortably and started a saline IV. 

After examining me further, the doctor ordered an ultrasound. This allowed him to rule out appendicitis and present me with the opposite diagnose many of us have had abroad... I was seriously stopped up and that was causing my heavy cramps. Now that I've had both extremes, I think I "prefer" this one.

Now that it's passed (pun unintentional), I certainly prefer it over appendicitis!

Thank you Michael James and Global Rescue!!!

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One more place to skip... A large bar called Allez Boo, on the corner of Pham Ngõ Lão and Dế Thám Streets, which is one of the more interesting nighttime traffic corners. During my final visit, I captured this home-made motorcycle with my phone:

The green you see on most surfaces is glued-on artificial leaves, giving it a jungle look. Quite impressive, actually. I love the creativity!

Back to Allez Boo (NOT going back, that is), the food is mediocre, the drinks crappy and over-priced with the added insult of a 5% service fee. I can only hope that since most people don't tip in Vièt Nâm, that the service charge goes to the help.

If you want a big, loud tourist bar, go one block away from the park to the corner of Pham Ngõ Lão and Bùi Viên Streets where there are two from which you can choose. The Crazy Buffalo is classier (?) but GO2 has better music.

Did I mention yet that just about everything here is LOUD?

Thailand is off the table

I go to Siem Reap next Sunday and was thinking of taking Eppo's advice and a bus to Bangkok to check out the demonstrations and meet the locals.

Then I got this from friend Tom:

Subject: Thailand Travel Alert, January 19, 2014
Reply-To: STEP-Notifications@STATE.GOV

The U.S. Department of State alerts U.S. citizens of the potential risks of travel to Thailand, particularly Bangkok, due to ongoing political and social unrest ahead of Thai parliamentary elections, scheduled to take place nationwide on February 2, 2014. The situation is unpredictable and ongoing demonstration activity, primarily in the greater Bangkok area and occasionally elsewhere in Thailand, is expected to continue. U.S. citizens are advised to avoid all protests, demonstrations, and large gatherings. Some protest sites are located near tourist attractions and popular shopping malls, which at times have closed or shortened hours unexpectedly. Protests may occur in other areas with little or no prior notice. You should allow extra time when travelling throughout the city or to/from airports. Consider using public transportation. Although many protest activities have been peaceful, increasingly violent incidents have occurred at or near protest sites. This Travel Alert expires on February 14, 2014. Political demonstrations have been taking place in Thailand regularly since early November 2013. Most protest activity has occurred in the Bangkok area, but on occasion there have also been smaller demonstrations in other areas, including Chiang Mai. In Bangkok, protests have been mobile throughout the city, with large numbers of demonstrators at times swelling quickly and closing major roads and intersections. The majority of the demonstrations have occurred in the vicinity of Thai government facilities and at major intersections including Lumpini Park, Democracy Monument, Sala Daeng, Asoke, Ratchaprasong, Pathumwan, Victory Monument, Lat Phrao, and at the Government Center at Chaengwattana. Beginning on January 13, 2014, protestors took control of these intersections, blocking most vehicular traffic, and occasionally redirecting pedestrian traffic. These sites draw large crowds, especially in evenings and on weekends. There is often reduced or no police presence at protest sites, where protest ?guards? frequently control access. While demonstrations have been generally peaceful, some have resulted in injury and death. Violence, including gunshots, was reported on the night of November 30, 2013 in the area of Ramkhamhaeng University in the Bang Kapi district northeast of central Bangkok. At least four persons were killed and several dozen injured. On December 26, demonstrations at an official election event at the Thai-Japanese Sports Complex Stadium in Din Daeng in north central Bangkok escalated into clashes with police, resulting in deaths and serious injuries. On the afternoon of January 17, 2014, an explosive device detonated amid a protest march near the National Stadium and MBK shopping mall at Pathumwan intersection in central Bangkok, which resulted in at least 39 injuries and 1 death. On the same day, there was a confrontation near the Government Center on Changwattana Road in northwestern Bangkok. On January 19, an explosive device detonated in a crowd of demonstrators at Victory Monument, resulting in at least 29 casualties. Throughout the first half of January, additional assaults involving weapons and explosives related to the ongoing political situation occurred at protest sites, both during the day and at night. The Thai government has invoked its Internal Security Act (ISA) throughout Bangkok, which allows authorities to close roads, make arrests; take action against security threats; and increase police presence around government buildings and at other locations. Police have used tear gas, rubber bullets, and other measures to protect government facilities at several locations. In coordination with the government, Thai military personnel have provided additional security at some sites in Bangkok. U.S. citizens are cautioned that even demonstrations that are meant to be peaceful can turn confrontational and escalate into violence. You should avoid protest sites, demonstrations, and large gatherings. Be alert and aware of your surroundings and pay attention to local news media reports. U.S. citizens who travel to or reside in Thailand are strongly advised to enroll in the State Department's Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP). U.S. citizens without Internet access may enroll directly with the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate...

So I decided to wait 'til next time.

HCMC, phần hai

After landing in Ho Chi Minh City 11 days ago, I headed to Flamingo Travel to say hello. Terance is now the unofficial manager, handling most of the paperwork and helping get things organized. Owner Hung is in Hà Nôi most of the time and although mechanic Chong's English is pretty good, there is a huge plus in having a native English-speaker in the office most of the time. He and I talked for a bit and he asked me to help with slow-speed riding instruction for novice riders. Almost two weeks later, I've helped a number of people increase their low speed stability and turning skills.

It's constantly amazing to me how many people (99.5% of the people to whom I am referring here pee standing up) come to Việnt Nam, see thousands upon thousands of motorbikes ridden by everyone from 12 to 120, sometimes balancing gods-know-what quite precariously, and think, "Hell, if they can do it, so can I!" and go out and buy or rent a motorbike to ride 1800 kilometers (1100 miles) from Hà Nôi to Ho Chi Minh City or the opposite. I researched and prepared for MONTHS and was unprepared for everything I encountered! 

It must be that Ego and Testosterone cocktail I wrote about a while back...

In the time I've been back in HCMC, I've done a lot of things and have managed to stay off motos and motorcycles... for the most part. My lower back is almost back to normal, though I am very much looking forward to seeing my friend and chiropractor Bob on a professional level the first weekday I'm back!

What follows is a non-sequential summary of my second visit to the former Saigon...

There's a Spa across the street from one of the bar girl bars and a very nice young woman named Dep stands out front on tile for 10-12 hours every afternoon through night in black flip flops that couldn't've cost US$2. She is there 7 days a week handing out flyers and very nicely soliciting customers for the various massages offered. I've been there twice and the massages are about average with no boom-boom offered or on the menu. My point is, Dep is extremely outgoing and each evening a number of us old Westerners stop by throughout the evening to say hello and chat a bit. If I were hiring a salesperson in HCMC, she would be my first pick.

Upon my return, I was reminded that since the thief discussed in an early post never returned my iPhone, her jacket, a pair of fancy high heels, and non-Smart phone were still awaiting either me or my stolen phone. I took the items to Dep, explained why I had them, and asked if she could use them. I wish you could've seen the look on her face! She is from a a poor Mekong Delta family (writing that, it feels redundant) and had no dressy "girl shoes"!!! I can still see the HUGE smile on her face and the tears welling up in her eyes... For days she thanked me every time I walked past.

WOW! I just got my US$400+ worth!

The day after I arrived I went to the Thai Consulate and got my visa. The woman tried to talk me out of it, saying that the rules had just changed and Americans arriving by air can now stay for 30 days without one. I insisted, mainly because I want the souvenir, but also--as I told her--the rules could easily change again.

Now, 10 days later, I've rarely left my comfortable little neighborhood. I know I've been here a while, because some of the touts have stopped asking me to buy sunglasses, wallets, maps, key chains, gum, cigarettes, and every other little thing thing they might be able to make a dong or three on. If you do come here and need something they have, please pay the asking price. Yes, you may be able to save 2,000 or 5,000 VND (a US dime or quarter) by walking into one of the Circle K stores that are as plentiful here as Starbucks are (it's both singular and plural like 'deer', right?) in your town, but they need the money a hell of a lot more than you or whatever multinational corporate trough you're feeding at Circle K. While you're at it, drop 20,000 in more beggars' bowls than you ignore. At a minimum, it's US$1 worth of good karma.

Hell, I've even taken Western-looking strangers to task for negotiating amounts under US$1. If you can afford to get here from whatever over-privileged nation you live in, pony up and pay the flippin' buck, ya cheap bastard! No, that's not what I say... though I'm sure it's coming. 

One day, as I'm talking to Dep, I hear a voice I do not recognize calling my name. If that happens back home, I ignore it because there are 287,000,000 men named "John" and the call out is probably for one of the other ones. Here, I actually turn and look... and it's the five German guys I met in Dong Ha a few weeks ago! How the hell do they remember my name? I wouldn't have remembered them if I'd seen them first...

Maybe it really is "a small world"? Oh, yeah... the blog.

They invite me to join them, and we spent a nice 20 minutes or so catching each other up. They've been joined by another guy from their hometown, so there are now five. This time, I actually asked their names: Tobias Wirthensohm, Alexander Schele, Bernard Ihler, Reinhard Reischmann, and Marcus Leutner. They are each very friendly and I'd imagine this will be only one of many adventures they have had/will have together. I hope to run into them again one day.

I made a note to mention luggage, but I am clueless as to why. They say the memory is the second thing to go...

Next: Phần Ba (Part 3)

Google Translate

I am unable to count the number of times over the past almost 8 weeks that I have used Google translate to help me in a one-on-one conversation. It is amazing! The translation from English to Vietnamese is very good, though I can tell you that the Vietnamese-English translation is less so. It is still light years better than the alternatives:
1) Talk only with English-speakers
2) Speak to others in their native language (see #1)
3) Hire a translator to follow me around
4) Become fluent in many, many languages

Yesterday I registered for an international motorcycle event that will take place this August in British Columbia, Canada:  HU Travellers Meeting Canwest 2014. I also reserved a great sleeping arrangement (a Medium Tent, though the Bus is tempting) at the nearby Riders' Retreat. 

As I was looking at the Horizons Unlimited webpage for the event, I noticed a drop-down button that says "Select Language". Tapping on the button, I got a Google Translate list of just about every language I've ever heard of (though Aramaic is missing, Latin is an option). When I tapped on "Vietnamese", I got a webpage that my Vietnamese-speaking friends easily read.

WOW!

A similar button is now at the top-left of this page. Go to Google Translate Tool for a similar bar for your web sites. It will be on mine in a few days.

My apologies for my earlier English-exclusivity.